Today it’s all about the classics with this crisp white linen shirt dress.

This shining star in the indie sewing firmament needs no introduction, you all recognise the Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Core Patterns.

Do you ever have those sewing plans that you swear you are going to make but then it somehow just manages to live in your brain for years and years?

This Closet Core Kalle Shirt Dress is one of those.

Even before the Kalle Shirt Dress was officially released as a pattern, Heather Lou of Closet Core Patterns posted some pics on her blog of her wearing an early prototype in white linen while on vacation in Europe.

Hope it doesn’t sound too stalker-ish that I remember someone else’s vacation outfit from many years ago! Umm, yeah ok. Moving right along.

And ever since I saw that version of Heather’s, I wanted to make my own version.

And, I’m pretty pleased with the end result!

Now, anyone who has followed this blog for a while knows that I have made quite a few versions of the Kalle Shirt or Kalle Shirt Dress. It was actually one of the earliest patterns which appeared on this blog. If you want to read more about sewing the Kalle shirt or Kalle shirt dress, you might find some useful info in those earlier posts: they can be found here or here or here or here.

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Yeah, I wasn’t kidding when I said I’d sewn this before!!

In the sewing community, we talk a lot about TNT patterns – those sewing patterns that are tried and tested (or is it “tried and true” – I’m never sure!). But I want to acknowledge here that as our bodies and style change over time, so can our relationship with even a pattern we’ve made, ummm, seven times.

So, out of all those Kalle Shirts featured about, there are only three which remain in my wardobe: the cropped white one and the two dress versions.

The other ones have not survived the test of time for various reasons: I no longer fit into them, as my sewing skills improved I was no longer happy with the quality of the garment or, in the case of the corduroy colour-blocked sleeve one, simply “what the hell was I thinking”.

All of this is to say that just because we have made a garment frequently, does not mean that we have mastered it or that we will never need to change it.

So when I set out to make a classic white linen Kalle shirt dress, I knew that I needed to make some adjustments to the pattern. I’ve gone up a few sizes since I was last sewing the Kalle Shirt Dress. My personal taste has also evolved and I am a lot more comfortable in more oversized garments than I once was.

I no longer feel that everything has to be cinched in at the waist.

So I decided to start again and cut the pattern out fresh. The pattern pieces I already had cut out for the various versions above were a size 12 but which I had adjusted to create further waist shaping.

After measuring out pattern pieces for a bit, I decided to start again with a straight size 14 for the new white linen Kalle Shirt.

I am pleased with this choice of sizing for the new white linen version.

I also have an accidental hack in this version. Based on previous experience I knew I found the Kalle shirt dress a tad short and wanted to make mine 2 inches longer. But I lengthened the front piece and forgot to lengthen the back.

So the hem of my version, especially at the side curve isn’t as designed. Instead it’s more “what you end up with when dealing with the fact that your back piece was 2 inches shorter than your front!”

Now, despite having sewed the Kalle Shirt seven times, I had avoided it over the last few years and used alternative shirt patterns instead because I have realised that I found it too restrictive around the upper arm.

For this version, I decided I wanted to try to give a bit more coverage and be a bit roomier around the arm. But since the sleeve is grown on and there’s the back yoke happening too, I was a bit at a loss how to do so.

In the end, I just extended my sleeve piece to the length of the longest size on the pattern (size 20 on the pattern I was using, but the Kalle Shirt Dres is also available in the extended size range), and I also sewed the cuff on using a tiny seam allowance to make it about a centimetre or so longer. I also lowered the armscye a bit to try to give me some more upper arm room.

Those adjustments give me a sleeve which is probably about 1.5inches longer than it would have been if I had just cut it as designed.

I would say that this is an improvement on my previous versions, but it’s still definitely not my perfect sleeve. There’s still not quite enough coverage and feels a bit tight when I lift my arm. If anyone has figured out a proper way to create more bicep room on the Kalle Shirt pattern, please let me know!

The other little hack I made was to add inseam pockets.

I was imagining this Kalle Shirt Dress being the perfect summer vacation staple and, well, while travelling, more than ever, I need pockets. Not that we don’t all need and deserve pockets everywhere. I mean where the hell else am I supposed to keep hand sanitiser accessible?

So I wanted proper pockets, not just the decorative chest one.

So I used the inseam pockets from the Amy Jumpsuit (also by Closet Core) and added them in.

I do have to admit that the pockets do pull a bit and it messes with the lines of the shirt dress. Not going to lie, the garment hung a lot better on me without the pockets. So I guess I have to choose between aesthetics and practicality.

And who am I kidding, I will always choose practicality!

So, all in all, I’m definitely happy with this white linen Kalle Shirt Dress.

It finally fulfilled a project that has been dancing around my brain each summer for years. I got around to trying to modify an aspect of a well-used pattern to improve it. I also had a chance to reflect upon how my sewing and style has changed. And I also enjoyed a moment of humility as I realised that sometimes I am just better off starting afresh.

That’s kind a whole lot of learning to be sparked by one little white linen shirt.

And this is what happens when we sew our own garments – every piece of clothing is a learning and growth opportunity.

And now, how long do you think it’ll take me before I manage to stain the shit out of this one?

And will it be red wine or chocolate?

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